I took the housing off my clutch to change the belt. I took a air compressor and blew it out and tons of black dust came out. I have smoked a belt before and I guess that is what it is.My question is, can you use a cleaner of some sort to clean those parts. and if so what?

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2001 Polaris H.O.
snorkled
K&N and jet kit
clutch kit
28 outlaws
lift kit
spacers
 

I use brake cleaner when servicing my clutches, and 400 grit sand paper to clean up the surface area the belt rides on.
The primary, while idling, I start down inside of the clutch face, and slide the sandpaper up to the top, it takes about 2 seconds with each pass. Not alot of pressure, just enough to hold the paper in place. I keep running from bottom to top until the sand paper doesn't look dirty anymore. Instead of seeing black on it it will start to look shiny. That face is clean. Then I repeat on the other face. After, still idling, I blast the primary with brake cleaner, the clutch face and around the spring and weights. Then I wipe down the clutch face with the paper towel. Be careful, you don't want to get hit in the knuckle while idling, doesn't feel nice, let me tell you. heheh.
The secondary I like to pull apart and clean it inside out. Remove the secondary, and with some c-clip pliers remove the retainer clip on the tranny side of the clutch, carefully so the helix doesn't pop up in your face. Dis-assemble everything in a manner you'll remember how things go when putting it back together. I scuff up the clutch faces with the sand paper, and blast everything out with brake cleaner. Then I wipe down the clutch face with a clean paper towel and brake cleaner. I put a super thin layer of never sieze on the center shaft that the moveable sheave slides on. Grease works too. From what I remember with the EBS secondary, there isn't any spring settings and you don't have to twist the sheave to create spring tension. Put everything together the way you took it apart, compress the secondary spring and snap on the c-clip. Everything's clean, throw on a new belt.
If anything isn't specific enough, I can elabotate with a bit better detail if needed.
I hoped this helped!

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My Quad- 2001 Explorer 400
RACE pipe, trail porting, .060" over wiesco, 13:1 billet head, oil-inj blockout, steering damper, chain tensioner, 39mm pwk d-slide w/velocity exelerator, v-force delta 2's, K&N, egt guage, Aaen roller, tach, gps, Works shocks, 2,000lb warn, heated grips/vest/thumb, hand guards, 1 5/8" front wheel spacers, 25-8-12/27-12-10 Gators w/Douglas alum.
Wife's- '01 traxter 500 auto shift, 27-9-12/27-12-12 Mudrunners, 2,000lb warn, K&N, heated vest/ grips/thumb, hand guards.

Thanks I will be at it tonight if I have any troubles I will post. Thanks again

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2001 Polaris H.O.
snorkled
K&N and jet kit
clutch kit
28 outlaws
lift kit
spacers
 

Clutch

I was wondering what it does,like does it raise or lower the engagement rpm's and do you have to remove the drive clutch to install it?

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01 500sp HO with 27" bi/tri claws,ITP magnum wheels and front lift(mine)
96 400sp still stock but not for long(her's)
99 125 breeze(son's)
85 Lt50(daughter's)
 

The white spring is stiffer, it takes more centrifical force to move compress it, raising engagement and has a higher shift point. This puts your sp500ho closer to it's peak rpm.
Pull your clutch cover off, there's smaller bolts on your primary, and a big one in the center. Remove the 6 bolts first, then the large one, carefully, it will pop off when the center bolt runs off the threads. Install the white spring the same way the stocker was, it will take a bit more force to line up the bolts because this new spring will have more tension. Be sure to line up the "X's" when putting the outer section of the primary back on, your primary was balanced this way. Push the outer piece on, thread in your center bolt, the the 6 smaller. Tighten everything back up, fire up your machine before putting the cover back on to check the spring isn't binding. I've had a few EPI springs this way, one way they were binding, restricting the spring's compression, turn it around and it worked. Wierd. Note- your primary will be noisy with no cover on. A certain amount is natural, if it's rattling like an '86 6.9L navistar, you may need a rebuild kit for your primary.

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My Quad- 2001 Explorer 400
RACE pipe, trail porting, .060" over wiesco, 13:1 billet head, oil-inj blockout, steering damper, chain tensioner, 39mm pwk d-slide w/velocity exelerator, v-force delta 2's, K&N, egt guage, Aaen roller, tach, gps, Works shocks, 2,000lb warn, heated grips/vest/thumb, hand guards, 1 5/8" front wheel spacers, 25-8-12/27-12-10 Gators w/Douglas alum.
Wife's- '01 traxter 500 auto shift, 27-9-12/27-12-12 Mudrunners, 2,000lb warn, K&N, heated vest/ grips/thumb, hand guards.
 

well said Hoseclamp!! Toad, if you want more jump off the line this is an easy way to get it, I installed the white spring in my stock HO and now it will pull wheelies with ease. Its well worth the $20 and not very hard to install.

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2002 yellow sportsman 500HO, brush guard, 2000 warn winch,

wide open till you see god!!!

toad1167...the higher rpms are a little bit of a pain in reverse but otherwise not that noticeable. If you want to just creep you have to rev it up a little more. for average rideing it isn't that noticeable. Try it, if you don't like it you can take it out its only $20